Emeril Lagasse is in love with Louisiana. His first book, the masterful New New Orleans Cooking, began the relationship. In Louisiana Real and Rustic, Emeril has turned it into a full-blown affair. Along with coauthor Marcelle Bienvenu, Emeril set out across the state in search of that "culinary state of grace" Lousianans seemed to be naturally blessed with. The result is 150 recipes that serve at once as cultural history, geography lesson, and some mighty fine eating. This is a roots cookbook through and through, and the first lesson to learn is that in Louisiana, the roots run deep. Acadian, Creole, north Louisiana, south Louisiana, Bayou, country, city--each figures into the mix, and Emeril explores them all. He shows you gumbos that can be made with a French roux, African okra, or a filé from the indigenous Indians. There are famous Meat Pies from Natchitoches, Louisiana; Creole dishes like Catfish Pecan Meuniere; and classic étouffées, jambalayas, and fricassees--the one-pot meals that are the heart of Acadian (a.k.a. Cajun) cooking. The opening sections on the "Garde Manger" (food safe) and "Sauces" (try the recipe for homemade Worcestershire sauce) are indispensable for anybody even remotely interested in the food of Louisiana. More importantly, Emeril understands that food is another part of history, the people, and their culture--and in Louisiana, they eat well. --Mark O. Howerton |
